About Breeding
All about starting up... the good and the bad
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Are you looking at breeding cats or are you a new breeder? Well, I thought I would share my cat breeding journey for all to read. I feel it would be helpful for those who are thinking about breeding cats and those new to breeding cats too.
I don't want to put anyone off from breeding cats, but it has come to my attention that many people don't understand what's actually involved and what could happen along the way. It can also be very emotional!
I have highlighted in bold anything that costs money, so you can quickly see some of the costs involved in breeding cats.
Being aware and prepared is a good way to start your breeding journey 😊 ​So, let's get into it!
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The first thing you should ask yourself is why you are doing it.
You have probably read this many times already, but truly, profit from pedigree cats does not come in the first few litters, unless all the stars just happen to align for you.
To save you money and frustration, I recommend that you only enter the breeding world if you have a passion for it... and if you have money. I do not recommend you go into this with a profit or business mindset, unless you are prepared to pour thousands of dollars out first and wait many years.
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To start with, check with your local council to see what is required of you prior to breeding.
You will most likely have to apply and submit an application for breeding approval.
Some councils state that they will need to first inspect your property, check if you own the property or have approval from the landlord to breed and that you have a current membership with an approved recognised feline association.
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Once you have council approval, choose the breed you're interested in. Research the breed as much as you can. Read the standard for the breed to become familiar in what is desirable for your breed of choice.
When you have selected the breed, I suggest you then find a mentor. It will be easier to convince them to be your mentor if you can show that you have put the effort in to research the breed.
I can't recommend it enough. Find a mentor! You'll feel safe and more capable of looking after your cat when things come up if you have someone you can call on for advice. Not every breeder is able to offer this, so if you don't get a response or if you are turned down, don't give up. They are out there, you just have to find them! 😊
You can try e-mailing or calling other breeders. If this isn't really working for you, I suggest that you go to some cat shows to meet the breeders and see their cats in person.
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Once you have found a mentor, it is likely you will also buy your first queen from them too.
Kings and queens cost thousands of dollars. They are far more expensive than a de-sexed kitten.
I have seen prices upward of $10K per cat, but usually they are around $5K.
Often times, entire cats will be sold with a contract. Make sure you read the contract in full prior to signing it, as it can restrict what you are able to do with them.
When choosing breeding cats, my priority is health first, temperament second and looks third, as I see no point in breeding an unhealthy, perfect looking cat with a bad temperament.​
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While you are waiting for the right kitten to be born, you will need to register with a recognised feline association. Some feline associations will only accept your membership application if you have a mentor.
You'll also need everything you would for a pet cat. So, you'll need to allow for food and water bowls, litter trays, sturdy scratching posts, brushes, food, litter, beds, toys, worming medication, flea and tick treatment and annual vaccinations.
You should also have your breeding cats DNA tested to ensure there are no genetic issues or blood related incompatibility when mating.
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When you have only one queen, you will likely be able to have her live and breed in your home.
Once you have multiple queens, you will probably want to purchase some outdoor enclosures too, so they can have some fresh air and have the opportunity to have some space themselves.
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Once your queen is old enough for breeding, you can take her to a stud cat. This may be at the same place you bought your queen from (make sure you check with the breeder, as some won't allow it), or it may be with another breeder.
The stud fee is usually around $1K - $2K for each successful mating.
But sometimes kittens can start calling from as early as 4 months of age, so be prepared for this too.
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It is not a good idea to let your female continuously call without being mated.
A cat that calls too often without becoming pregnant is at an increased risk of pyometra. The hormone changes increase the risk of a bacterial infection in the uterus. Bacteria moves to the uterus from the vulva and multiplies, which then forms pus.
Usually, the recommendation is surgery, which leads to your cat being de-sexed, as they remove the uterus and ovaries.
If you wish to continue breeding her, you may be offered an alternative to surgery, depending on the condition of your queen and whether it is open or closed pyometra. But be aware that she will go through a horrible experience due to the side affects of the administration of prostaglandin.
The success rate for open-cervix pyometra is approximately 75 - 90% and the success rate for closed-cervix pyometra is about 25 - 40%.
Recurrence of the disease is approximately 50 - 75% and successful breeding after treatment is only at about 50 - 75%.
So think very carefully about whether you feel it is worth putting you cat through this with these stats.
I highly recommend you read the following for more information about pyometra. In particular, the last page:
https://vetclinicofmb.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2021/08/Pyometra-.pdf
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Once she is pregnant, she will give birth in approximately 58 - 63 days.
Make sure you are fully prepared for the birth well before it happens.
It is a good idea to research cat birth while your kitten is growing up so you have time to make your own notes and refresh yourself with your notes when the time comes.
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Sometimes breeders will breed a cat soon after she has had a litter.
If I were to do this, it would be for the cat's health - to minimise calling and avoid pyometra.
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For example, if Gypsy had a litter in spring and then called again in summer, depending on her condition, I would probably choose to breed her again, as this is when she would normally be in season.
Allowing her to breed will reduce the risk of pyometra, because she will not be calling, as she would be pregnant.
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It would also mean that she would most likely not come back into season until the kittens are approximately 3 months old, which would be about June. As it would then be winter, Gypsy would most likely not call again until late Spring, which would mean for the year, she's only called twice.
This is in Gypsy's best interest, as it is not only a minimal amount of calling, but it also means she was only bred twice in a year.
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Allowing a cat to constantly call can lead to weight loss and pyometra, which is not what we want for our cats. Gypsy is in excellent condition, her health is perfect and we believe that this would be the best decision to allow breeding, while keeping her healthy.
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For the birth you'll need to make a nest for her, which usually consists of a box and soft blankets / microfibre bath mats.
You'll also want to have a list of vets, including your preferred vet, back-up vet and after-hours vet. You'll also want to have paper towels, soft hand towels, gloves, sterile scissors, impact colostrum supplement, kitten bottles, kitten miracle teats, bottle and teat brushes, baby nose aspirator, heat mat, breeding collars, a gram scale, small box, puppy training pads, cat milk, food and water bowls, bin bags, note pad, pen and a box to put all of these items into.
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If the birth goes smoothly, you shouldn't have any additional vet costs to start with.
But if you do come across trouble during your cats birth, such as the labour isn't progressing, a kitten is stuck in the birth canal, there is excessive bleeding from your queen, a kitten is not looking or sounding well, you haven't accounted for all placentas or a kitten is hanging from the queen but still attached to the placenta inside the cat, or if your queen is showing signs of milk fever, I recommend you contact / go to your vet A.S.A.P.
In some cases, your cat could end up with a caesarean (which could be around $1.5K - $3.5K, also depending on the time of day or if it's a public holiday) and even lead to your cat being de-sexed due to complications.
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If some of the kittens aren't getting enough milk or if the mother rejects the babies at first, it will be up to you to hand feed the newborn kittens around the clock. If the mother rejects them entirely, you will need to feed them until the kittens wean onto kitten kibble. Ensure that you have researched this well prior to the birth.
Also keep an eye out for signs of mastitis in your queen.
If all kittens are born healthy and feeding well, you will have to take them to the vet at least twice so they can have their first check-up and receive their first and second vaccinations, microchip and be de-sexed.
They will also need to be wormed and flea treated prior to leaving you.
You will also have to register the litter and pay fees to your feline association for the pedigree papers.
You will have to buy items for a kitten pack to give to the new owners which can include food, litter, toys, treats, paperwork etc. and offer your continuing support after they have purchased a kitten from you.
You can also arrange some pet insurance for the new owners if they choose.
If all goes well with the kittens growth and de-sexing, you shouldn't have any additional vet costs.
You'll also have to find the perfect home for each kitten 🥰
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Once you decide to buy a king for your queens, you will need to have a suitably sized outdoor enclosure for him to live in. He will also need an outdoor litter tray, a high spot to retreat to after mating with a queen, outdoor scratching posts, outdoor toys, shade, water bowls, a bed and food bowls which are protected from the weather.
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You'll also have to think about the number of litters your queen will have and what age you will retire her.
Usually the recommended limit is a maximum of 2 litters per year and a lot of queens are retired before the age of 5.
You will also have to think about whether you will keep retired queens or find them new homes, baring in mind the number of cats the council has approved for your property.
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On top of this, while it is not compulsory, it is expected that you attend some cat shows.
If you are going to enter your cats into cat shows you will need to buy a show cage, show curtains, weatherproof cage protector, mini litterbox and pay the entry fee.
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All costs listed on this page are what I have come across in the world of cat breeding and ragdolls. Costs could be higher or lower for other breeds.
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Making a substantial profit is possible, but it will only be from one of three ways.
The first way is, if you were able to make a profit quickly, you would most likely not be an ethical breeder, you will most likely not meet the standards and most likely not be registered or will not be selling kittens with pedigrees.
The second way, you have been doing it for a long while now and have poured your love and money into this journey and have slowly built up your breeding.
Or lastly, the stars aligned for you. You were able to find a cheap queen, you had zero issues with any births or kittens, had very large litters and sold every kitten for a high price.
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Some people ask, why do you do it then, what do you get out of it?
Well, I just love it! I love cats and in particular, I have always loved Ragdolls.
I love those sweet little adorable kitten faces! Holding their tiny little bodies in your hands is such a wonderful feeling!
Bonding with your cats and being with them, supporting them during birth... it means a lot to me.
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So, please trust me when I say... only breed cats if you have a passion for it, otherwise you face being severely disappointed and will most likely end up out of pocket to start with.
I do my best to break even, but even when I don't, it doesn't matter to me, because...
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🥰 I breed ragdoll cats for the love of it! 🥰​​
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If you're interested in reading how my breeding journey has gone, here it is!
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I started off with one Queen, Gypsy. She is my beautiful blue mitted girl with the best temperament you can get for a ragdoll!
Gypsy is an affectionate girl and loves to follow you around, she's very laid back and floppy too 🥰
We walk Gypsy with her harness on around the property and she loves to roll around in the grass.
She also likes hanging out in her hammock in the outdoor enclosure. From there she watches the fairy wrens bouncing around in the garden.
I was very new to everything about breeding cats, but I had done a lot of research on it. I spoke to breeders, read through many websites and watched videos online.
Gypsy started calling at about 18 months old, but we weren't ready to breed her. Thankfully, Gypsy wasn't the type of cat to call very often.
We took Gypsy to a stud when she was about 2 and half years old and she had her first litter of kittens a couple of months later.
It was a big moment for both of us. It was our first time going through cat pregnancy, labour and kitten birth.
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The First Litter
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​Gypsy's pregnancy was very straight forward.
She started to pink up and vomited once at about 3 weeks. She ate a lot of food, but spent most of her time asleep... which is what she normally did anyway 😄
A couple of weeks before she was due, I decided to have her tummy shaved so the kittens could find the milk easier.
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Then it was Friday the 13th. of January, 2023 and Gypsy went into labour at about 3:30pm.
Gypsy was hanging around me, like normal, then suddenly darted over to her nest in the corner of the room.
I rushed over to check on her and spoke to her for a bit. I could hear she was rearranging things in there, so I opened the box and had another look. She was hiding under the puppy training pads.
Gypsy was scared of what she was feeling. I stayed by her side and comforted her.
About half an hour later, the first kitten was born. It was grey and looked slightly underdeveloped.
It was moving and Gypsy showed no interest in it. The kitten was stillborn.
I was now worried that if there were any more kittens to be born, that they would be the same. At the time, I thought that labour must have started to early.
I had tried to prepare myself for this situation, but as much as I told myself to get ready for the worst, I still broke down in tears.
I was so sad for Gypsy. There was nothing I could do the change this, nothing I could do to help her. I couldn't tell her what was going on. All I could do was try and comfort her. I kept talking and patting her while I waited to see if there were any more kittens.
My children were very young at the time and they had no idea what was going on. I told them they could go do whatever they wanted for the time being... and they did. I had a bit of cleaning up to do afterwards, but they kept themselves busy 😅
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I thought it would be a good idea to call the vet to see if they might know why the first kitten was born like this and if any following kittens would also be like that.
I gave Gypsy some cat milk and I walked away to make the phone call, but Gypsy darted after me.
I quickly learnt that walking away is not an option at all when your queen is in labour, especially if it is her first time.
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The vet said the first kitten born isn't an indicator to how any other kittens would be born and couldn't say why it may have been born like this, but to let the labour carry on providing Gypsy looked fine, or I could bring her in and they would watch her.
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I decided to stay home as Gypsy looked fine and I didn't want to disrupt her.
About half an hour later, as I was sitting there watching her, Gypsy gave birth to another kitten.
It was big and healthy and it let out the sweetest meow, but Gypsy got scared when she heard it.
She was confused, she didn't know what it was, she got up and started rushing around in the box, the kitten was still connected to the placenta and the placenta was still inside Gypsy, so the kitten was just hanging there meowing.
I calmed Gypsy down and the placenta came out. She then ate the placenta. She chattered and was panting for a little bit, but then stopped, but her breaths remained short and quick, but she was happy to let the kitten feed.
Gypsy was in love with the little white kitten. I was so happy for her. I wanted nothing else for her but to have a live kitten to love and look after.
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Gypsy was tired and just slept with her kitten. I thought that must have been it as she looked to content now.
I contacted a couple of breeders and they said there might be more, but not likely as she has settled down now.
At about 3 hours later Gypsy started showing signs of labour again and another kitten was born, but it was still connected to the placenta and the placenta was still inside. Gypsy still cared for it even though it was down there.
She didn't get up and move though and I didn't want to disturb anything.
About 20 minutes later another kitten was born, but the same thing, it was still connected to the placenta and the placenta was still inside Gypsy.
I now had 2 kittens stuck down there. Gypsy was not having any more contractions to get them out so I knew I had to intervene.
Gypsy was very tired now and was only showing attention to Maximus. I was worried about the kittens and phoned both the breeders for advice on what to do.
The breeders suggested that I very slowly and very gently try to pull the placentas out.
I now felt out of my depth and was hoping for the best. If the placentas broke off and remained inside, it would mean an after-hours vet trip.
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I put a glove on and made sure Gypsy was calm. I then started to pull on one of the umbilical cords, trying not to let it break. Then suddenly, one popped out. I was so relieved! I then tried to pull the second one out and it popped out too! I was so happy!
I picked up each kitten and placenta and put them up near Gypsy's face so that she could cut through the umbilical cords.
As soon as she smelt the placentas she knew what to do and got to work.
Now I felt like she was finished. So we carefully moved them all out of the old nest and put down a new box with fresh bedding inside. Then we moved them all back into the new nest.
Gypsy looked happy and the babies were feeding. We did it. We got through the first birth 🥰
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I got up the next morning to check on all of them and everything was great. The kittens looked healthy and were feeding well. Gypsy was alert and eating well, although still quite messy around the rear end.
I weighed the kittens and kept track of their weights daily.
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On Sunday morning, I started to notice something was off. Gypsy had significantly reduced the amount of food she was eating. She was still active and caring for the kittens and the kittens looked fine also, so I thought she might have just been feeling a little off. I thought I would just monitor her for now.
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On Monday morning, Gypsy was not interested in eating any food at all. I tried opening a different flavour of cat food and some cat milk, as she's normally a picky eater, but again, no interest.
There was nothing in the litter tray either.
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That afternoon I tried mixing a small can of tuna in with her regular food and she ate that eventually.
Gypsy finally used the litter tray that night.
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On Tuesday morning I went to the shop and bought her some crab and prawn broth pouches, as these smells can really get a cat wanting to eat.
I mixed it in with her regular food and she loved it.
I phoned the breeders and asked for their advice and I phoned the vet. They didn't think it was an infection as Gypsy was still eating something and caring for her kittens. I ended up driving to the vet to buy some tins of 'Hill's Prescription Diet A/D Urgent Care'*.
As soon as I opened the can, Gypsy showed interest. She ate a third of the tin immediately.
I also bought a tube of 'Nutrigel' in case I thought I'd need it.
I got Gypsy back onto her normal food and she was eating normally within no time!
*Please note that 'Hill's Prescription Diet A/D Urgent Care' is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding only. It is not recommended for long-term feeding. Consult your vet prior to feeding this to your cat.
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From here on we had no problems! Gypsy was back to normal and the kittens had two does of the F3 vaccination without any issues and were microchipped and de-sexed prior to going to their new homes at 12 weeks old.
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At 1 week old I worked out that they were all boys.
At 2 weeks old I could tell their colour and patterns.​
We had:
Maximus - A seal mitted boy
Puss In Boots - A blue mitted boy
Cloud 9 - A blue mitted boy
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The Second Litter
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Gypsy started to call again in the middle of winter.​
We took her to the stud and picked her up four days later.
At 3 weeks in, Gypsy started to pink up and she vomited once. There were no issues with the rest of the pregnancy.
I decided not to shave Gypsy's tummy this time.
The night before Gypsy was due, she was acting differently. Gypsy is an affectionate cat to start with, but now she was very clingy and just wanted to be held. If we put her down to go do something, she would start running around the house looking for a spot to have her babies.
She chose two spots. A sleeping bag and a pile of clothes. I figured the nest I had made wasn't dark enough.
So I popped her in the laundry and opened up her cat carrier for her to sit in if she chose, as it was very late and I didn't want her to birth on the carpet or couch. I also moved the nest in there too.
I went to bed and about 3 hours later, Gypsy had her first kitten. It was about 2:30am and so I sat with her while everyone else was asleep.
Everything was going smoothly, Gypsy was calm and each kitten was born with a placenta following, about 30 - 45 minutes apart.
We ended up with 3 kittens in the second litter, but shortly after the second kitten was born, I knew something wasn't right. Gypsy cared for it at first, but it was very restless and wouldn't stop crying. No matter what I did, it just kept crying, I tried to help it find Gypsy's nipple, but it turned it's head away.
I hopped on the computer and did a few searches to see if I could find a reason why this kitten seemed so distressed.
I had only turned my back for a few minutes, but when I went back over to Gypsy, I saw she had put the kitten in the corner and was only tending to the first and third kittens born.
Gypsy had rejected the second kitten. I couldn't accept it at the time. I was so sad for the little kitten.
So I took it and warmed it up in a box. I then started to get a little bottle of milk ready for it to drink.
I had heard that sometimes kittens get so upset when they can't find a nipple, it takes a while to calm them down before they can drink again.
The milk was ready and I tried to feed it. Again, it turned away. The kitten was not interested at all.
It was now about 7:00am, so I contacted a couple of breeders to ask them.
I think I already knew the answer at the time, but I didn't want to accept it.
Both of them said the same thing. It is likely that the kitten will not make it.
One them said it could possibly be a cleft palate and to place my pinky inside it's mouth to feel if there was a gap.
So I did this, but I did not feel a gap. After a bit, the kitten started to fade and went quiet. It was still and I picked it up and gave it a little rub. It woke up and started crying again.
I decided to take it to the vet and they looked inside it's mouth and said it has a severe cleft palate and that it will not make it.
I started to cry because the poor little kitten didn't have a chance at life.
I left the vet with my children and cats and drove home, while trying to explain to them why Gypsy only has two kittens now.
I would have preferred to go on my own, but I had no-one else to look after the children while I was gone.
It was hard to go through.
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Late that night, I noticed that Gypsy had stopped eating and drinking.
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The next day, Gypsy vomited twice and was looking a little lethargic, so I took her straight to the vet.
They checked her temperature and ran two blood tests. They also did an x-ray to check that there were no more kittens / placentas still inside too. One blood test was to check her calcium levels and the second one was a complete blood count. Her temperature and calcium levels were fine and there was nothing found on the x-ray, but her white blood cells were high.
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They gave me some antibiotics and anti-nausea tablets to give to Gypsy and they gave her an anti-inflammatory needle.
Once we came back home, Gypsy had perked up and had a big drink of water and ate a bit of food.
Again, I offered Gypsy some crab and prawn broth pouches to encourage her to eat.
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From here on we had no problems! Gypsy was back to normal and the kittens had two does of the F3 vaccination without any issues and were microchipped. One kitten was de-sexed and we kept the other one as a future Annelina Queen. The de-sexed kitten went to her new home at 12 weeks old.
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At 2 weeks old I worked out they were girls and I could tell their colour and patterns.​
We had:
Strawberry Kisses - A seal bi-colour girl
Blueberry - Unknown
Raspberry - A blue mitted girl
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The Third Litter
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Gypsy started to call again in March.​
We took her to the stud and when she came back, she was in a bad mood. She didn't want Strawberry anywhere near her. But this is normal for a pregnant cat. They like their space!
As the days went by, Gypsy warmed up to Strawberry again.
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Once again, 3 weeks in, Gypsy started to pink up and she vomited once. After this, the rest of the pregnancy was fine.
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I was sitting on the floor next to Gypsy on the night she had her kittens. All of a sudden, Gypsy looked at me and let out a long meow. I knew straight away things were happening. I got up and called her over to the nest and Gypsy quickly followed.
We both knew the drill now. Gypsy had the first kitten around 7:30pm.
Everything went well and Gypsy was calm. Each kitten was born with a placenta following, about 30 - 45 minutes apart. Gypsy had given birth to 3 kittens by 9:00pm.
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Gypsy was incredibly energetic after the birth. Her eyes were bright and the babies were happy.
If I hadn't seen Gypsy have the kittens, I wouldn't have known that she had them. She was so alert and lively!
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​We had no problems during or after the birth!
The kittens had two does of the F3 vaccination without any issues and were microchipped. Two kittens were de-sexed and we kept Midna as a future Annelina Queen. The de-sexed kittens went to their new homes at 12 weeks old.
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At 2 weeks old I worked out we had 2 girls and 1 boy.
At 3 weeks old I could tell their colour and patterns.​
We had:
Twilight Princess "Midna" - A blue point girl
Link To The Past - A lilac bi-colour boy
Princess Zelda - A lilac bi-colour girl​​​​​​​​​​​
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